The Second-Hand Clothing War: How Kenya Left Nigeria Behind

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Highlights:

  • Kenya now leads Africa in second-hand clothing imports, surpassing Nigeria.
  • Imports hit $298 million in 2023, a 12.45% increase from the previous year.
  • Policy changes in Kenya, such as tax exemptions, are expected to drive further growth.

Kenya Overtakes Nigeria in Used Clothing Imports

Kenya has officially surpassed Nigeria to become Africa’s largest importer of second-hand clothes, according to trade data compiled by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).

In 2023, Kenya imported second-hand garments—locally known as mitumba—worth Sh38.5 billion ($298 million), marking a 12.45% increase from the previous year. This rise reflects the country’s growing demand for affordable clothing, including shirts, dresses, jackets, shoes, bedding, towels, and curtains.

MIT’s Observatory of Economic Complexity reports that Kenya’s 2022 imports were nearly on par with Nigeria at Sh34.5 billion ($265 million), while South Africa ranked third at Sh33.76 billion ($261 million).

Nigeria Drops Despite Larger Population and Import Ban

In 2021, South Africa led Africa in second-hand clothing imports. However, due to strict restrictions—only allowing used textiles for industrial use or charity—Kenya and Nigeria quickly closed the gap.

Despite Nigeria’s ban on used clothing imports, the country remained a top importer due to informal smuggling and high demand. However, by 2023, Kenya had firmly taken the lead, with Ghana ranking second (Sh30.4 billion), followed by South Africa (Sh29.4 billion), Uganda (Sh27.2 billion), and Nigeria (Sh27 billion).

Kenya’s Tax Policies Fuel the Mitumba Boom

Recent changes in Kenya’s tax policies have further boosted the second-hand clothing market. The removal of the Import Declaration Fees (IDF) and the Railway Development Levy (RDL) has made mitumba imports cheaper and more attractive.

However, local manufacturers have raised concerns, arguing that the surge in mitumba imports could harm domestic textile industries by making locally produced clothing less competitive.

As Kenya cements its position as Africa’s mitumba powerhouse, the debate over economic benefits vs. local industry survival continues. Will Kenya’s booming second-hand clothing market help or hurt its economy in the long run? Only time will tell.